Travails of the Wide Eyed Wanderer

My tour group for my trip up to Nairobi are a curious bunch.

Two Russians, one the editor of Fulham football club's website, a couple of Americans, one a keen birder; the other a gay Californian, a few British gappies, some Norwegians and the customary smattering of Canadian travellers.

The trip nearly ended for me before it had begun as the tour bus left without me - forcing me to run down the street to catch up. Belatedly, I boarded the bus and, with everyone else already seated, found myself at the back of a bus with suspension so hard that the slightest bump caused you to jump on top of the person beside you.

After a long bus journey, we set up the tents in the rain. The highlight of the day was watching the much anticipated Champions League final. Having watched a jubilant Manchester United celebrate - and an inconsolable John Terry - I went back to the tent for an early start.

Although the trip involves a lot of travelling on bumpy roads, the journeys have been better than I expected. We play games to keep ourselves amused and watch the varied landscapes, and the wildlife that occupy them, pass by.

With the weather improving, we travelled from north west South Africa, across the Namibian border, and into more arid landscapes. We finally arrived at the Orange River and, with the tent facing the water below, I joined Giselle, one of the members of my group, for a refreshing swim.

We looked forward to a more relaxing day ahead which involved more swimming in the morning, followed by a long drive to watch the sunset at Fish River Canyon - one of the largest canyons in the world. Frustratingly, we all failed our stated mission for the day though - to cross the natural border of the Orange River and travel from Namibia, back into South Africa - without the need for passports. However, try as we might, the current proved too strong, and, after wading half way across, we would float hopelessly downstream - being dragged along sharp rocks in the process.

After spending the night near the canyon, we began another lengthy journey to get to the edge of the Namib Desert. Desperate to spread our cramped legs, Giselle and I went for a walk to Sesriem canyon. Here we met another tour group, with whom I had connections, having shared a hostel in Cape Town with one of their group. As the light faded, we were glad to hitch a lift back with them and prepared for yet another early start the next day.

Waking long before dawn, we travelled to some of the largest sand dunes in the Namib Desert and watched the sunrise. Slowly warming up, we travelled deeper into the dunes to have a guided tour explaining how desert creatures survive, how to recognise their tracks and how the bushman of 30,000 years ago coped in such harsh conditions.

We visited a dried up lake which had left behind strikingly weathered (dead) trees. The highlight though was uncovering a spider's nest just under the sand, which had a doorway made from material similar to velcro. When opened, the spider would promptly stick out his leg and close the door again. Another joy was the simple pleasure of rolling down a dune. The only problem is that I am still trying to get the sand out of my hair!

After a long journey, I arrived into Cape Town airport late at night and was thrilled to be met by my parents who had taken a short holiday to visit me.

After catching up with each other's news, our sightseeing around Cape Town began in earnest the following morning. We travelled by the luxury of a hire car (no bus for me this time!) to the Cape of Good Hope - the most south westerly point of Africa. Here we enjoyed the views and crashing waves, before stopping off at a penguin colony on the way back.

The next day was spent at two of South Africa's famous vineyards - Vergelegen in the morning and Spier in the afternoon. Although less exlusive than Vergelegen, Spier offered an incredible lunch buffet with different types of game (for example springbok and antelope) - all served to us in a private tree house! In addition to the expected wine tasting options, Spier also differs from other vineyards by hosting a cheetah reserve.

Waking up to the best weather of our stay in Cape Town the following morning, we decided to ascend Table Mountain by cable car - only to find it had broken down. Determined to reach the peak of Cape Town's most famous monument, we began our climb from the botanical gardens of Kirstenbosch. Despite taking a wrong turning that led us (and the Americans following behind) up a steep ravine, we eventually reached the summit. Table Mountain's flat appearance is deceptive though and it was with tired legs that we descended. Having returned to the botanical gardens, we took a well deserved tea break - one of several during my parents' short stay. The problem now is that I am finding it difficult to get throught to my stomach that now my parents have gone, the days of scones and cream are over...

On the penultimate day before my Mum and Dad returned home, they took me to their first, and favourite, winery which they had visited the day before I arrived. After some more wine tasting (for the first time ever I am now beginning to appreciate wine...) we enjoyed a tasty lunch and drove to one of Cape Town's nearby beaches. After paddling in the cold Atlantic waters, we watched a spectacular sunset - made all the more atmospheric by the threatening sky and crashing waves.

On the day of my parents' departure, we fitted in a quick tour of Robben Island where we saw the infamous lime quarry and the cells occupied by Nelson Mandela and his collaborators. Indeed, our tour was led by a guide held as a political prisoner during the 1980s.

Sadly my parents then left me at my hostel (voted the best in Africa) as we shared an emotional goodbye before they continued onto the airport. I look forward to seeing them again in 6 weeks time. I soon adjusted back to the hostel routine though and, having made some friends, joined them for a dinner of warthog...as you do.

Up at 4am the next morning, I began one of the highlights of my trip - shark cage diving. After a sleepy journey down the coast, and the inevitable seasickness, I began to wonder whether the experience could justify the hype. This feeling developed during a long, nauseating wait for the Great White sharks to appear, and then again as I dropped myself into the icy water.

No scuba diving equipment is used as (believe it or not) sharks are wary of the bubbles. Consequently, you stay in the cage, head above water, shivering, until someone sees a shark, then you throw yourself down to the hole in the cage and, holding your breath for as long as possible (almost as long as required for this sentence) you watch the sharks close in on the bait within touching distance of you.

Great White sharks must be considered the most perfectly designed killers on Earth - the way they come from deep and bite with such force is a sight to behold. We saw numerous sharks from 2m to 4m in length. My personal highlight was when the man beside me had just got out and, with attention elsewhere, a shark came towards the bait from deep and jumped substantially out of the water almost on top of me - whilst the top of the cage was still open! Staying in the water long enough to witness that was worth taking the next few hours to thaw out...

I have now joined up with my tour group, with whom I will travel north to the Kenyan capital of Nairobi.

Travelling to Ayers Rock, or Uluru to use its Aboriginal name, I stayed in the only town in Central Australia of any real size - Alice Springs.

Arriving into Alice, I was suprised by the relatively low temperature (about 26°C). Despite now being in 'autumn', I had expected the arid outback to be hotter than tropical Cairns. Moreover, I expected the desert to be red, barren and dusty. However, whilst it was certainly red, the area, even around Ayers Rock, remains comparatively green.

On my 3 day tour to Ayers Rock I was able to take in some of the lesser known highlights of central Australia. First up was 'King's Canyon' where small lizards basked in the sun and I tried not to get too close to the sheer canyon walls.

That evening my group spent the night sleeping under the stars in a swag. A swag is little more than a sleeping bag cover which leaves your head open to count the shooting stars until you fall asleep. Due to the lack of major urban areas in the outback, the region is regarded as one of the best in the world to stargaze.

Up early the next morning, we visited the Olgas (called Kata Tjuta by Aboriginals). These were created from sediment deposits, in the same way as Ayers Rock, but are actually higher than the more famous monolith. The Olgas differ in that they form several separate rocks that look like huge mole hills.

We then headed to Ayers Rock. I had the opportunity to climb the rock, and was very tempted by the challenge, but the Aboriginals have made it clear that climbing the rock, which is so sacred to them, is very disrespectful. Recognising that as a tourist I am not always a force for good, I decided that I would do a good deed by instead walking around the base of the rock and admire the Aboriginal art.

Personally, I found Ayers Rock far more impressive from a distance and enjoyed watching the rock change various shades of orange as the sun set. Experts claim the rock changes colour 17 times - though I think they must have been smoking something... The next morning I watched sunrise at the rock, before heading 500km back to Alice Springs.

Knowing I had 2 days in Alice Springs, I spent my first day sunbathing by the hostel pool. Alice, to be brutally honest, is not an interesting town - unless you meet one of the many aboriginals. One woman saw a frozen chicken in a shop and immediately started a conversation with me about the relative merits of pre seasoned chicken. This was one of several slightly strange interactions with Aboriginals...

In the evening I went with some Irish friends to the only place showing the season ending Premiership football matches - the casino. Whilst I enjoyed watching Manchester United seal the title, it is my experience at the blackjack tables that will live longest in the memory. Starting with 10 dollars (£4), I had soon reached a dizzying peak of 50 dollars (£20). Knowing to quit while your ahead, I went to watch some football. After the match though, tempted by the ease of my previous winnings, I played again - and lost it all having been dealt some awful cards. Luckily, I made a small recovering before the casino closed at 3am, and nearly managed to break even. I think losing the money was important though, because otherwise I would be eager to return to a casino to get another taste of the gambling buzz. Ironically, I found out later that this week is 'Gambling Addiction Week'. Maybe I should attend one of the meetings!

On my last day in Alice, I visited the reptile centre and tried to look relaxed as a huge python curled his body around mine.

Tolday I leave Alice and travel back to Sydney where I will spend the night with my cousins before getting on the plane to Cape Town.

After staying another week with my relatives in Sydney, and being treated to an expensive buffet at the top of Centre Point Tower, I packed my bags again and headed north to Cairns in tropical Queensland.

Cairns is a mecca for backpackers, who visit due to the town's proximity to the Great Barrier Reef. For me, the desire to visit the reef was arguably the catalyst for my gap year travel. Having become a certified diver whilst I was in Honduras over Christmas, I spent my first 2 days on a 'liveaboard' boat which enabled me to sleep out on the reef and go diving every few hours - spending the time inbetween sunbathing on the deck!

The diving was fantastic with such a variety of colourful fish and corals. However, the most memorable dive was the night dive. Shortly before jumping into the dark water, the boat's underwater lights were turned on to reveal countless sharks, some 2m long, circling the boat - a scary proposition! The sharks were not the only highlight of that dive though as our underwater torches found sleeping turtles and a fish who protects himself at night by resting in a bubble of his own mucas.

Returning to the shore in the evening, I walked the length of Cairns esplanade and watched the setting sun turn the sky pink and yellow. The recently renovated esplanade has a beautifully refreshing man made lagoon and has several free BBQs - on which I have enjoyed a few steaks! The following day I enjoyed a day of rest in the sun, working hard to top up my tan after a few rainy days in Sydney.

Fully rested, I travelled north to Cape Tribulation the next day. My organised tour included several stops on the way, the highlight being the boat trip along the Daintree river to look for crocodiles. Unlike my previous, unsuccessful, experience in the Amazon, this time I saw several crocodiles - from the (almost) cute baby croc to the 4m long, 100 year old, 1 toothed grandfather!

Arriving in Cape Tribulation I spent the remaining part of the day, and the following morning, exploring the amazing scenery. The region is an undulating area of rainforest which gives way to white sand beaches and the coral reef just below the surface. Due to the infamous 'box jellyfish' I was unable to go swimming. However, I was more than happy to stay sunbathing on the beach!

The rainforest surpassed my expectations as I saw small turtles swimming in a creek and nearly stepped on a snake. I was also forced to surrender and find an alternative route to avoid a particularly stubborn lizard, about a metre in length, that was basking in the sun. Earlier, I had been told to lick the back of the green ants in the rainforest. Having found some I did - and wow I never knew an ant could be so flavoursome...and sour!

After being picked up the next day, I had several further detours on the way back to Cairns. These included seeing where Steve Irwin had his final wildlife encounter, spending time in Port Douglas (a nearby resort) and enjoying a refreshing swim in the river running through Mossman Gorge.

Back in Cairns, today has been a quieter day, recovering from the night before, when some French friends and I went to a bar's 'all you can drink' power hour. More usefully, I have also spent the day preparing for my flight to Ayers Rock tomorrow!